Bilbao–It’s all about the Guggenheim

 

We went to Bilbao, Spain for a museum. Yep. The Guggenheim Museum designed by Frank Gehry. Somehow a photo of this iconic museum lured us there. We were in Italy for a wedding and a quick flight to Bilbao became a reality after we secured a home exchange (more on this later). This iconic museum is only 20 years old, but it has transformed this city. There is something called the Guggenheim Effect–meaning a Guggenheim Museum can put a city on the map. It worked for us although when we told friends we were going to Bilbao, we got tilted heads and puzzled expressions. I guess not everyone has heard of Bilbao. Read on to discover more about this city and this iconic museum.

 

 

Located next to the Nervion River, the silver curves and contours of the architecture mimic the river’s course and simultaneously appear to be a new age ship ready to set sail. We were greeted by Jeff Koon’s Puppy outside the entrance. Marveling at the sheer size and the vibrant red, yellow and white living flowers carpeting it, we ogled it for several minutes before moving on to the gargantuan spider around the corner. 

 

 

 

At first the massive size of this spider perching on the courtyard startles the senses. However, the inspiration behind this sculpture is also breathtaking. Titled Maman (mommy in French), it’s dedicated to Bourgeois’  mother, a weaver of tapestries, “Like spiders, my mother was very clever. Spiders are friendly presences that eat mosquitoes . . . helpful and protective, just like my mother.” A whimsical detail–there are ten marble eggs located in its underbelly underscoring the title of the piece. 

Our first impressions upon entering are the amazing light and intricate stairways. It’s clear the architecture is the star both inside and out.

 

The Matter of Time an installation by Richard Serra is gigantic located in a vast room on the bottom floor. Almost like an indoor maze, you can wander the chambers where steel sheets spiral and curve along the floor. The viewer engages directly with the sculpture zigging in and zagging out to encounter the shapes from different perspectives. I actually felt giddy as if I were on a journey to explore this new landscape.

Now for the exhibits. We had to wait in line to enter a black doorway with black hanging 12 feet long feather boas covering the entrance. Once you push through you’re in complete darkness but touching soft feathers that tickle your nose and cause disturbing claustrophobia. You end up in new room and hope your husband will come through soon. Other disquieting exhibits included progressive Chinese art after the Cultural Revolution. I was dismayed by the video of tattooed pigs copulating while a human audience looked on, but even sadder I couldn’t stop watching. By far the best exhibit was Marc Chagall: The breakthrough Years 1911-1919. The Birthday (seen below) is a wildly romantic and transcendent depiction of Marc and his wife Bella on his birthday. Soaring with joy, their love defies gravity. I am reminded of the Weepies lyrics from  their song “Painting by Chagall.”

“We float like two lovers in a painting by Chagall”

 

Leaving the museum, I reflected on Chagall’s comment, “Art seems to me to be a state of soul more than anything else.” My soul was indeed uplifted by my Guggenheim encounter.

Click her to move on to the Rioja Wine Region