Village Hopping
Each of the five villages has its own allure. Most people travel there to conquer the historic walking path that connects all five towns. Raphael had issues about taking this 10-mile walking trail. The primary issue being he didn’t want to. Also, the two easiest walkways were being renovated. Luckily, it’s easy to explore by train. We chose to go to the southernmost town Riomaggiore and work our way up.
Riomaggiore
You will recognize this photo because this scene is insanely photogenic and is often used to promote Cinque Terre. Beginning with the candy apple red building, the colorful apartments organically sprout up the cliff. All the towns are perched on hills. It’s clear why the Italians are so slim—mandatory hill climbing.
Manarola
Next stop Manarola. More brightly painted cliff hugging apartments. Our first thought is take the jagged path down to the small harbor where boats line the streets.
Our treat in Manarola was buying a paper seafood cone of mixed seafood (10 euros). We sat on an apartment stoop people watching and nursing a frosty cold Peroni. 
The lightly fried shrimp, calamari, and anchovies–sheer heaven.
Corniglia
The only village to be perched above the fray. There is no beach access or water taxi access. The train drops you off and you are faced with two choices. Take the picturesque zig zaggy steps up the steep cliff to the town or attempt to board the crowded shuttle. Guess which one we chose.
After being dropped off at the beginning of the town, we discovered the cuteness of the twisty, carless pathways and colorful shops.We stumbled onto Bar La Teza Tera at the highest point of Corniglia with its cozy courtyard seating overlooking the bay below. Our bird’s eye view from above sweetly illustrated the curvaceous cliffs and stunning coastline.We also enjoyed the local white wine with toast and local pecorino cheese that you dipped in local honey (notice all those “locals”). I’d never tried this before, but now I’m obsessed with pecorino cheese dipped in honey.
Vernazza
Next stop, Vernazza. Oh my! Looking down at the tiny harbor with the vineyards in the background and the 14th Century Santa Margherita Church, the water is translucent green. We look up towards the switchback streets spilling over with tourists. I had read that Vernazza is extremely popular during the day, but calmer at night. Saving Vernazza for another day, we resolved to return–on our next magical mystery tour to Cinque Terre.
