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Ometepe: Volcanos, Waterfalls, and Island on a Lake

Geographically, Nicaragua is crazy diverse, with 19 active volcanos, a Pacific and Caribbean coastline, and a ginormous lake with an island. Which was our next stop. In the middle of Lake Nicaragua is the Island of Ometepe. The San Jorge ferry in Rivas to Ometepe was confusing even knowing Spanish. Somehow, we managed to be one of the last boarding even though we were two hours early. This meant we were packed in like the proverbial sardines with no seats. Having a tendency to get seasick, I found an empty seat without a seat cushion. Only the metal frame remained, so I improvised using my airplane pillow as the cushion. Not a smooth crossing, I heard the splashes of waves capsizing over the top along with the squeals of drenched passengers. Closing my eyes until it was time to disembark, I finally got a glimpse of the island.

First glimpse of Ometepe

Looking untamed, I pictured a brontosaur peeking out a la Jurassic Park.  Ometepe, is a relatively large landmass in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. Geographically, it was formed by two volcanoes and its name means two mountains. Rolling our suitcases down the ferry ramp, we encountered the frontier looking town of Moyogalpa, a young rustic town as evidenced by its lack of hotels. We opted for Hostel Casa Morena which while spartan and austere at least offered a private bathroom. Our room with its two beds had only one sheet each and the shower only one faucet with no hot water. I asked the receptionist about hot water and I was told there was no need for hot water.

Casa Morena

Madera Volcano and San Ramon Waterfall

The next day our destination was Madera Volcano for a hike up to the San Ramon waterfall. We paid the entrance fee so our driver could get closer reducing our hiking time. The tropical green trail is accented with floating, yellow, blue and multicolored butterflies along with treetop monkeys. As we climbed higher, the incline increased as did the rocky streams and boulders to maneuver. At one rocky stream, my husband pulled his calf muscle and that was where he plopped while I continued onward up the last demanding stretch. Reaching the waterfall was a sublime reward. I faced a huge massive cliff with a frothy spray delicately floating down covering the mossy green rock. Jolie said it was the warmest waterfall she had ever experienced.

San Ramon Waterfall on Ometepe

I let the spray refresh me while the kids bathed in the pool. Nick checked on Raphael and reported that he was holding court at the stream engaging all in lively banter as the climbers passed him. Descending, we collected Raphael and luckily, he was able to hobble his way down with the help of a improvised cane and Johnny and Nick. Lunch at a lakeside restaurant in Santa Domingo, again rustic but quaint. Fresh fish and Nica time made for our afternoon being used up. Our last stop was the Isthmus Punta Jesus Maria, a spit of land like a pier leading into the lake. at different times of the year one can walk on the spit of land for one mile. Perfect for sunset viewing.

Next stop Granada, click here.

 

Isthmus sunset viewing