Three Gorges
It’s controversial. Our riverboat trip through the remote Three Gorges on the Yantsee River has some baggage. Building a dam on the Yangtze meant having the water level climb over 30 feet causing major disruptions to the populace and environment. Knowing this didn’t mar my enjoyment of the beauty. Misty skies and arrow-shaped mountains with jagged peaks greet us as we enter into the canyons of the Three Gorges. Fittingly, the water has reverted from brown to Chinese emerald-jade. Never blue, but deeply green and lush. Eyes widen as I try to fully embrace the pristine beauty of the canyon caves (some with ceremonial coffins), straggly waterfalls, and jungly green vegetation. Each spiky mountain top has its own unique composition. The Three Gorges refer to Xiling, Wu, and Qutang, limestone ridges towering on either side of the riverboat. Hard to believe, but below us and underwater are wooden homes and communities that were displaced when the dam was completed in 2004. Over a million people were relocated. One local guide told us he preferred his newer, roomier apartment, but he said this was because he’s young and more flexible. His parents are still mourning their loss.
As picturesque as our journey has been, the most beauty was yet to come. In Wushan, we boarded smaller sampans to be able to maneuver the Yangtze tributaries. Quieter and more spiritual as the name Goddess Stream implies, we floated on bejeweled liquid with verdant mountains laced with wildflowers and tiny streamed cascades of water. Our guide pointed out a wooden home high on a cliff of a holdout family who point-blank refused to leave. They have children so each school day they trek down the mountainside, board a small boat and cross over to a landing where they must climb the mountainside to reach the school.
Ancient Chinese paintings, misty and mountainous, are recalled as we turn back to reboard our riverboat and continue east toward Wuhan where we will disembark. 