A futuristic blast to the past, orderly hordes, the tame, tame East, lost in transportation and Zen on steroids

New to Japan and as a stranger in a strange land, I came equipped with one Japanese phrase, domo arigato, which means “thank you” probably the most useful phrase ever. Prepping for Japan was like taking a college class. Do I get the JR pass? Where to go? How much is a dollar worth in yen? I scoured travel blogs, websites, and queried friends. We finally decided to go to Tokyo and Kyoto and take day trips from each using the Japan Rail Pass.

Tokyo has the honor of being the largest city in the world. The wise Anthony Bourdain once mused, “It’s an irritating reality that many places and events defy description.”  Tokyo and Japan so stubbornly defy description, but by sharing my experiences, I might be able to add in a few more puzzle pieces to this complicated metropolis.

The Most Amazing Sights I Never Saw!

• Silverware drawers. In our apartment in Tokyo, after futilely searching for the silverware drawer, I realized I should instead search for the chopsticks drawer.
• Tipping. Each country has its unique rules for tipping and Japan is no exception. According to our guide, Hiroko, there is 100% NO TIPPING. I enjoyed not having the stress of who and when to tip.
• Sunglasses and Mount Fuji. We were in Tokyo in October and the sky was overcast and or rainy. Definitely, a city of umbrellas. Also, we had opportunities to see Mount Fuji, but, to paraphrase Joni Mitchell,  the clouds got in our way.
• Homeless people. According to statistics, the homeless rate in Tokyo is quite low. I personally did not see any homeless on the streets.
• Overweight people. Seriously, this is a country where obesity is not a huge (no pun intended) problem.
• Road/public transportation rage. While the crowds can be overwhelming, especially at peak hours on the subway, I never saw anyone get flustered, upset, or angry. At one point while on the subway, I thought it was physically impossible to admit any more passengers. I was wrong. You can always squeeze in ten more.
• Litter or graffiti. Tokyo is the largest city in the world as of 2019. The city is shiny and sparkling even though the crowds are phenomenal.

Penelope’s Favorites

Ebisu, My Favorite Neighborhood

Obviously, we did not explore every neighborhood in Tokyo, but fortune blessed us with a friend from Taiwan who owned a condo in Ebisu, where we stayed.

This darling, chic neighborhood south of Shibuya abounds with ultra-cool cafes, restaurants, and is the home of Yebisu Brewery. Standout restaurants were Afuri Ramen, the Oyster Shack, Ta-im, an Israeli restaurant, Ebisu Tempura Uoshin, gourmet tempura with a killer view of Tokyo on the 38th floor of the Yebisu Garden Place.

Ichiran Shibuya, My Favorite Ramen

For most Americans, the only connection we had to ramen was Top Ramen, the staple of many starving college students. Ramen, the most luxurious noodle soup that comes with endless varieties of broths and ingredients, became our favorite meal in Tokyo. Raman restaurants abound in Tokyo, but our favorite was Ichiran Ramen, located not far from Shibuya Crossing, the intersection known as the busiest thoroughfare in the world.

Descending down a dark staircase, we were greeted by a vending machine where you order and pay. The restaurant is hidden behind curtains and an electronic board indicates when a table opens up. Super funky, there are two counters with individual booths where one can eat in private or lower the divider to eat together.

Nomadic Matt describes the “the thick flavored broth is to die for.” Open 24 hours, we got there at 11:00 AM and only had to wait about 15 minutes. When we left, the queue was down the block.

TeamLab Planets, My Favorite Museum

By far the most unique and interactively immersive museum we visited was TeamLab Planets in Toyosu. Before we entered, we were instructed to roll up our pants to our knees because we would be traipsing through water. In fact, we began by walking up a small waterfall. We turned into a gigantic beanbag room that required us to roll and squirm to make any progress.  We squealed and bounced our way across the room to the next doorway and into the crystal room of mirrors and lights. Our reflections were endlessly repeated while the colors changed and we dizzily danced through the endless curving maze. I held on tight to Raphael, fearing if I let go, we’d be lost forever.

Finding the exit, we departed the dazzling lights room and trudged down a hallway of water and we are handed a towel to dry off before we enter balloon land. Giant bouncy orbs that bop about and change colors at a slight tap.

More Through the Looking Glass adventures to come. We gasp as we step into the lake of darting and squirming koi, practically entangling our legs with their shimmering reds, oranges, purples, greens and blues.

The final frontier called “Floating in the Universe of Flowers” transports you to walls, ceilings, and floors of flowers that bloom and wither over time, endlessly reblooming with a new iteration of the fantastic variety of nature. 

Still a Stranger

These are my glimpses into a city I do not claim to know intimately, but a city for which I have enormous respect. I will always cherish my foray into this strange land.

I would love to hear from those of you who have been to Toyko. Share your favorites, your insights, and your impressions in the comment section below.